Juan Conde
Señor Sotol
51.4%
NAS
Señor Sotol Ancestral is a "micro batch" release helmed by Durango-based sotolero Juan Conde. The liquid begins with wild-harvested shrubs cooked in underground volcanic rock pits lined with mesquite. They're then crushed by axe, fermented in coffin wooden vats and twice distilled in clay before resting three to six months in glass.
Something else of note: Unlike most sotols, which are distilled from dasylirion wheeleri (the most common "desert spoon"), this Ancestral is distilled from dasylirion cedrosanum, a subspecies that's largely unheard of when it comes to commercial distillation. There isn't much information online breaking down the distinction, so consider this a hands-on investigation. The bottling was released in October 2025 and is in the early stages of rolling out to retailers.
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The aroma opens with a big whiff of must. Yeast, chamomile, green grapes and a tangy, cheese-like lactic vibe. Smells like a basement that hasn't been explored in decades, creaky floorboards, forgotten wine bottles and all.
A whole lot more sweetness than I was expecting from the aroma, undercut by a palpable acidic note. Flavors of corn, fresh sliced apples, lemon juice, pine needles and barnyard funk. All feel remarkably fresh and zippy. The mouthfeel tingles with bright minerality that's hard to place a finger on — almost tastes like sunshine? Probably not the best comparison. There's a lot going on here, and most surprising of all, the ABV goes down without a hitch.
A wonderfully long finish, drawn out with hints of limestone minerality and lactic notes. Flashes of lime, humid earth, smoked fruit, flower petals and tree resin.
A fantastic bottling stuffed to the brim with surprises. In place of the grassy, almost gin-like vibe I've observed in most sotol offerings, this Ancestral dives headfirst into a powerful one-two punch of sweet and sour flavor. I'd highly recommend sticking around with this one until the end, even if you're scared away by its pungent aroma.
92
Disclosure: The producer provided this sample to review free of charge, and without expectation of review or rating.
