What Is Sool? Exploring the World of Korean Alcohol, Soju and Beyond

(Photo: Pexels/Mizzu Cho)

When most people think of Korean alcohol, soju is likely the first thing that comes to mind. Widely available and often consumed in green bottles while eating Korean BBQ or enjoyed alongside beer (somaek) at a fried chicken spot, this type of soju has become a symbol of modern Korean drinking culture. But Korea’s rich history of alcoholic beverages extends far beyond the ubiquitous green bottle. From the trove that is craft soju, to the deep complexity of makgeolli, to the refined elegance of yakju and the rare heritage brews passed down through generations, traditional Korean sool (alcohol) offers a fascinating glimpse into the country’s drinking traditions, regional diversity and cultural rituals. 

Today, as craft brewing and global palates expand, sool is stepping onto the world stage again — not as novelty but as a category of its own. And behind the movement are brewers, sommeliers and passionate bar owners determined to share these time-honored flavors with the world. Though there are many different and specific types of sool, we will look at some of the main ones that are reaching popularity in Korea and abroad.

The Meaning of Sool

In the broadest sense, sool (술) simply means “alcohol” in Korean. It encompasses all Korean alcoholic beverages, both fermented and distilled. The etymology traces back to subul, combining the words for “water” (su) and “fire” (bul), symbolizing the transformative process of fermentation and distillation. Sool encompasses everything from takju and makgeolli (unrefined rice wines) to yakju (refined rice wine), soju (distilled liquor) and a wide array of regional styles.

“Sool just means alcohol. But like sake in Japan, it’s come to represent something more: Korean alcohol, traditional alcohol,” explains Dustin Wessa, owner of Namsan Sool Club in Seoul, South Korea. “It’s rice, water and nuruk. You mix those together, and you get something beautiful.”

Namsam Sool Club is a bar that showcases Korean craft alcohol

This way of simplifying terms you see in the Korean sool is seen in other parts of the world. In Japan, osake or sake simply means alcohol but has become universal for one type of Japanese alcohol, rice wine, otherwise known as nihonshu.

While sool can refer to modern mass-market spirits like the familiar brands of soju, it traditionally encompasses handcrafted, fermented beverages made from rice, barley, wheat or even fruits and flowers, each with their own regional identity and brewing style.

A Brief History of Traditional Korean Alcohol

Korean traditional alcohol, also known as jeontongju (전통주), dates back thousands of years and reflects a long evolution of fermentation practices. Alcohol making could have begun as early as 8000–5000 BCE — when evidence for pottery capable of holding and fermenting liquor began to emerge and fermented honey and fruit wines are thought to have been consumed along the Korea Strait. 

Over millennia, Korean brewing culture evolved. Around 28 CE, Korea’s signature fermentation starter — nuruk — emerged. By the Unified Silla period (668–935 CE), refined rice wines were popular enough to be exported to China. 

The Goryeo dynasty (918–1392 CE) saw the introduction of distillation techniques from Yuan China, sparking the birth of soju. Later, the  Joseon dynasty (1392–1897 CE) documented over 300 varieties of grain wines and spirits brewed in Korean homes, ranging from medicinal elixirs to fruit-infused wines, many recorded in encyclopedic cookbooks and court texts.

“People have been brewing for thousands of years here. We’ve had a lot of time to perfect that prayer to the fermentation gods,” Wessa said.

However, Japanese colonial rule in the 20th century imposed harsh restrictions that reshaped the landscape of Korean alcohol. A 1907 liquor tax and 1916 law forced brewers to conform to Japanese classifications, yakju, takju and soju, while degrading Korean rice wine in favor of sake. Despite further setbacks during post-liberation economic hardships and post-war grain rationing, Korea’s brewing traditions endured underground and were gradually revived through grassroots movements in the late 20th century. Today, renewed interest in craft makgeolli, heritage yakju, and artisanal soju is helping restore a proud tradition. 

Nuruk: The Heart of Korean Alcohol

Nuruk, Korean alcohol fermentation starter. (Photo: korea.net)

The first step in understanding traditional beverages is knowing how the fermentation begins. All brewing of starches starts in the same place, enzymes. From malt in beer, to koji in sake, to saliva in chicha – the world has found a variety of sources of breaking down starches into fermentable sugars with enzymes. Sometimes these methods also introduce the yeast, which is the catalyst for sugars converting into alcohols. In Korea, nuruk is the key to this brewing process. 

Nuruk, the foundational fermentation starter of Korean alcohol, is made from wheat, rice or barley and cultivated with wild enzymes and microbes. It plays a dual role, converting starch into sugar and introducing native yeast for fermentation. Nuruk imparts unique flavors to sool and is essential for producing various traditional alcoholic beverages. Its composition can vary by region, influencing the taste and quality of the final product. This is the beginning of many of Korea’s rice wines (or rice beers, based on process), as well as the start to their distilled products like soju. 

Unlike Koji, which is used in Japan as a source of enzymes and yeast – nuruk can be made from a variety of starches, and the flavor it produces can vary based on location. 

“Nuruk is basically a Pokéball for mold mycelium,” said Wessa. “That’s where 90% of the final character comes from — not the rice, but the nuruk.” 

The Trifecta: Takju, Makgeolli, Yakju

Unmixed takju made with red rice. (Photo: Jessica Gleman/Bottle Raiders)

At the heart of Korea’s traditional alcohol are three forms of rice-based brews: takju, makgeolli and yakju. They all begin with the same ingredients — rice, water, and nuruk — but the way they’re filtered and fermented makes all the difference.

The trifecta of traditional Korean rice wines (rice beer) are takju, makgoelli and yakju. All are made from the same set of ingredients – water, rice and nuruk. 

One of the most common beverages found in Korea outside of soju is makgoelli. But makgoelli is just one part of the story when looking at rice wines. Takju and yakju are the beginning and ending chapters that surround makgoelli.

Takju refers to unrefined rice wines, with makgeolli being the most well-known variant. It’s characterized by its cloudy appearance and robust flavor. Takju is typically thicker and has a higher alcohol content than makgeolli, offering a heartier drinking experience. Bottles of takju are swirled and twisted to mix the settled rice with the clear alcohol on top. 

Makgoelli is a milky, slightly effervescent rice beer with a sweet and tangy flavor profile. Traditionally consumed by farmers, it’s made by fermenting rice with nuruk. With an alcohol content of around 6%–8%, makgeolli is enjoyed for its refreshing taste and pairs great with spicy foods. 

“If you cut takju with water, it becomes makgeolli. ‘Mak’ means ‘now’ or ‘half-assed’ — because on straining day, you keep adding water and sipping with your fellow brewers,” Wessa said with a laugh.

More recently, craft producers have revitalized makgeolli, introducing new flavors and higher ABVs. For a time, the Korean government was limiting the ABVof makgeolli to around 6%, which many of the big brands have adopted as standard practice. 

At the refined end of Korea’s rice wine spectrum is yakju, a clarified drink filtered from the thicker, unrefined takju. It undergoes multiple fermentation stages, resulting in a golden-hued wine with soft sweetness, floral aromas and delicate depth. Yakju stands out as the most diverse, with hundreds of varieties recorded in historic texts — each tied to regional terroir, seasonality or ceremonial traditions.

Once reserved for nobility and ancestral rites, yakju also held medicinal prestige; it was often infused with ginseng or herbs and prescribed under the traditional principle that food and medicine share the same root. The word ‘yak’ in yakju, is derived from the Korean word for medicine. Unlike Japan’s sake, yakju gains its rounded, earthy profile through nuruk-based fermentation. Today, it can be found in traditional Korean sool shops, specialty grocery stores and bars. 

Green Bottle vs. Traditional Soju: What’s the Real Difference?

(Photo: Unsplash/Eiliv Aceron)

Soju is the most purchased spirit in the world, and for many, the iconic green bottle defines Korean drinking culture. Modern green bottle soju from brands such as Jinro and Chum Churum is a mass-produced, diluted spirit with an alcohol content of around 16–20%. It’s often made from sweet potatoes or tapioca, is known for its neutral flavor and goes great with samgyeopsal (grilled pork) or other Korean BBQ favorites.

Soju makers for this style are given a neutral spirit that is then proofed down. The makers can also add sweeteners are flavors to create their own distinct soju.

In contrast, traditional soju is distilled from grains like rice or fruits and has a richer, more complex taste. Artisanal soju is gaining popularity among connoisseurs seeking authentic Korean spirits.

“I’m not against green-bottle soju or makgeolli. It’s part of the culture, but it’s not craft,” Wessa said. “While green-bottle soju offers a neutral, diluted spirit, its artisanal counterpart tells a bolder story, fermented with care and rich in personality.”

Many of these craft brands have higher ABVs, reaching 40% or more. Craft brands like Samhae and Hwayo are prime examples of traditional soju and highlight the extreme difference in taste from the green bottle sojus. 

Sool’s Future: Fermented, Bottled and Ready for the World

Sool reflects the depth and diversity of Korea’s cultural heritage. From communal bowls of makgeolli to the ceremonial refinement of yakju, traditional Korean alcohol is reclaiming its place in global spirits conversations. With young brewers, international brands and heritage techniques converging, the future of sool looks promising.

With government support and global interest rising, sool is poised to make waves beyond Korean borders. Craft producers in the U.S., like Hana Makgeolli and Yobo Soju in New York, are bringing these traditional techniques to Western markets, helping redefine what Korean alcohol can be.

“We’re basically on the cusp of a renaissance. Thousands of breweries have opened. Younger brewers are flooding in, and there’s a six-month wait to get into certification programs,” Wessa said.

Where to Try Traditional Korean Alcohol in Seoul: Bars, Tastings and Stores 

(Photo: Jessica Gleman)

For those interested in exploring sool, several establishments in South Korea offer educational and  immersive experiences:

• The Sool Gallery: Located in Seoul, this space serves as an educational hub dedicated to traditional Korean liquors. Visitors can partake in guided tastings and cultural programs that delve into the history and production of various sool types. You can also purchase the sool from the tasting. 
• Bar Cham: Nestled in Seoul’s Jongno District, the award winning Bar Cham is renowned for its innovative cocktails that fuse traditional Korean spirits with modern mixology. The bar’s interior, inspired by traditional Korean Hanok (traditional style house), features natural materials and a serene ambiance. Bar Cham ranked 20th in Asia’s 50 Best Bars and 71st in the World’s 50 Best Bars for 2024. 
• Namsan Sool Club. Opened in 2022 by sool sommelier Dustin Wessa, Namsan Sool Club boasts a curated selection of over 100 premium sools available by the glass. The bar emphasizes personalized service, guiding guests through flavor profiles to find the perfect match.

“I wanted a place where people could sit down and taste everything — makgeolli, cheongju, soju — side by side. We’ve got 125 options by the glass. It’s reckless, I know, but it’s what the people need,” Wessa said.

• Swallow Liquor Shop 제비술방. A boutique bottle shop and tasting space in Seoul specializing in premium sool like makgeolli, yakju and craft soju.